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Pat Warner’s two-part dado jig sizes a router-cut dado to the actual finished thickness of the shelf or other mating stock. Use that stock as a spacer between the guides, clamp the guides in place, then rout along their edges with a bearing-guided pattern-cutting bit. The method is straightforward, but the bit geometry and router depth must be set correctly to protect the jig and achieve the intended cut.
How the two-part dado jig works
The jig consists of two guide assemblies made from 3/4-inch plywood or medium-density fiberboard (MDF). The mating board itself sets the opening: place a piece of the actual shelf stock between the guides, snug the guides against it, and clamp them to the workpiece. After removing the spacer, a bearing-guided pattern-cutting bit follows the guide edges to rout the dado.
Because the spacer is the material that will fit the dado, prepare it to the thickness it will have in the finished project. In particular, use stock after it has undergone the sanding planned for the project; sanding can change its thickness and therefore the fit.
Materials and jig sizing
- Two guide assemblies made from 3/4-inch plywood or MDF.
- Clamps that can hold each guide firmly at its outer edge without obstructing router travel.
- A bearing-guided pattern-cutting bit compatible with the router and jig.
- A piece of the actual finished mating stock to set the guide spacing.
WOOD Magazine’s June 2, 2017 instructions call for additional pairs of guides when making dadoes 10 inches or longer; the top pieces of those pairs should be at least 12 inches long. The article’s accessible text does not give a complete cut list, so check its original drawing or make and verify dimensions for your own router base and bit rather than assuming unverified measurements.
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2-in-1 Router Jig for Slotting & Positioning, Heavy-Duty Aluminum Adjustable Bracket for Invisible Fasteners & Edge Grooving, Compatible with Most Routers (0-2 Inch Capacity)
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Set up and rout the dado
- Prepare the spacer. Use a piece of the shelf or mating stock at its finished, sanded thickness.
- Position the guides. Mark the dado location on the workpiece and place the jig there. Snug the spacer between the two guide parts so they are set by the stock, not by an estimated measurement.
- Clamp the jig. Clamp each guide firmly at its outer edge. Keep the clamps clear of the router base and its full travel along the guides.
- Remove the spacer. Save it for checking the fit after routing.
- Set router depth. Set cutting depth to the thickness of the jig parts plus the intended dado depth. The bit first travels against the jig edge, so omitting jig thickness changes the depth of the cut in the workpiece.
- Check the bit. Use a shank-bearing guided trimmer or pattern-cutting bit with its bearing riding the guide edge. Pat Warner cautions, “Be sure the cutter isn’t larger than the bearing”; a cutter wider than the bearing can damage the jig edges.
- Make the cut. Rout between the guides, maintaining control and a steady, unhurried feed. For a dado that exits at an exposed edge, clamp sacrificial scrapwood at that edge to help limit tear-out.
- Test the fit. Try the saved spacer or mating stock in the dado. If it is too tight, place one or two sheets of paper between the spacer and the guides, reset the guides, and rout again to widen the opening slightly.
Choose a compatible pattern-cutting bit
The bearing, not the router base, rides the guide edge in this method. Confirm that the bearing and cutter arrangement suits the jig and router, and that the cutter is no larger than the bearing. The 2017 instructions do not identify a specific bit model or size, so verify compatibility against the tool manufacturer’s specifications before buying or cutting.
Reduce tear-out and improve cut quality
- Clamp sacrificial scrapwood against the workpiece edge where the router bit exits to support the fibers.
- Use sharp cutters and avoid feeding the router too quickly.
- Where the work allows, choose straight-grained, properly seasoned hardwood and prepare stock to remove cups and bows.
- Recognize that deeper cuts raise the risk of tear-out. Climb-cutting calls for light cuts and additional safety procedures; it is not a casual substitute for a controlled conventional pass.
- For the routing sequence described by WOOD Magazine, cut end grain first, then edge grain.
Source
WOOD Magazine’s Pat Warner’s dado-jig instructions were published June 2, 2017. They describe the setup, bit caution, depth calculation, fit adjustment, and tear-out guidance in this article.
Quick Recap
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