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Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsFix Now →Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →WOOD’s four-sided tapering jig uses a flat plywood-and-hardboard sled, adjustable T-slot hold-downs and a pivot bolt that indexes a hole in the leg. That fixed registration lets you cut two adjacent faces, then turn and re-index the blank for the other two. The dimensions below are the featured build’s specifications; adapt them to your saw, stock and hardware rather than treating them as universal.
How the indexed jig keeps all four faces registered
The workpiece is positioned by two features: an adjustable stop block that aligns the taper layout with the jig edge, and a hole in the leg’s end that fits over the pivot block’s 1/4-20 bolt. The bolt preserves the endpoint as you reposition the leg between cuts. Adjustable hold-downs ride in the sled’s T-slots and clamp the blank.
Jim Heavey, WOOD contributing craftsman and educator, describes the pivot block this way: “The beauty of this jig is at one end we have a pivot block, with a 1/4-20 bolt coming out of it.” The design’s purpose is repeatable registration; the tutorial does not establish independently tested accuracy or safety performance.
Materials and dimensions in WOOD’s build
WOOD’s Jim Heavey specifies a 3/4-inch multi-ply plywood base topped with 1/4-inch hardboard. The T-slot shoulders are made with a 5/8-inch dado cut 3/16 inch above the table, then a centered 1/4-inch dado opens the narrower slot through the hardboard. These measurements belong to this tutorial’s jig, not every table saw or T-slot clamp.
#1 Best Overall
- Rockler’s Taper & Straight Line Jig: The taper drill jig allows you to make tapered cuts quickly, easily, and accurately at your table saw. With the miter bar removed, this wood working jig also doubles as a stable, straight-line ripping jig.
- Easy To Fit: This straight-line hole jig fits snug in any standard 3/8" x 3/4" miter slot and features a large, ergonomic handle for smooth push-action performance throughout the cut. The guidance booklet in our jig table saw is available so you can make it your very own.
- Multipurpose Drill Jig For Angled Holes: With a simple indexed angle setting system, heavy-duty hold-down clamps, and a smooth sliding design, the table saw jig makes tapered cuts fast, easy, and more precise. Our jig tools are perfect for chair legs, table legs, and more.
- Easy To Setup: In tapering mode, these woodworking tools and accessories are intended for use in the miter slot to the right of the blade. On many saws, your initial cut will remove a narrow piece of the tablesaw jig’s base to create zero-clearance support
- Where To Work? These wood working tools works with table saws on which the left edge of the right miter slot is 3-3/4” to 4-3/8” from the blade or 5” to 5-5/8” from the blade.
- 3/4-inch multi-ply plywood for the base and stop blocks.
- 1/4-inch hardboard for the sled skin.
- A 5/8-inch dado set and a centered 1/4-inch dado cut for the featured slots.
- Bolts sized to fit the slots, including the pivot block’s 1/4-20 bolt.
- Adjustable hold-downs and stop blocks; the stop-block key is 1/4 inch thick and rides in a slot.
Check the finished slot dimensions against the bolts and hold-down hardware you plan to use. Compatibility also depends on the saw table, fence, blade clearance and the workpiece dimensions.
Build the base and T-slots
- Cut the plywood base to suit your saw and intended workpiece. The source does not prescribe a universal base length or width, so establish clearance and support for your stock before cutting.
- Cut the 5/8-inch dadoes in the base with the dado set positioned 3/16 inch above the table, as specified in the WOOD build. These cuts form the wider shoulders of the T-slots.
- Glue the 1/4-inch hardboard skin to the base. Clamp the glue-up against a known flat surface, and clear squeeze-out from the slots while the glue is wet so it does not block the hardware.
- Cut the centered 1/4-inch dadoes through the hardboard to open the narrow part of each slot.
- Make the stop blocks from 3/4-inch plywood and fit each with a 1/4-inch key that slides in a slot. Add the adjustable hold-downs and confirm that the bolts travel and clamp securely before using the jig.
Set up and cut the four faces
- Keep the leg blank square-sided for layout and joinery. Mark the shoulder and taper lines, then drill the end hole that will register on the pivot bolt. In the WOOD video’s example, the top shoulder remains untapered for 4 inches and each face tapers about 1/4 inch; those are example dimensions, not a general leg specification.
- Place the end hole over the pivot block’s 1/4-20 bolt. Adjust the stop block until the layout mark aligns with the jig edge, then clamp the leg at the shoulder with the T-slot hold-downs.
- Make the first cut, then reposition the leg while keeping the same end hole indexed on the pivot bolt. Cut the adjacent face.
- Turn the leg to bring the remaining faces into position. Re-index the same hole on the bolt, preserve the endpoint registration and clamp the blank before making each cut.
- As the taper develops, check that the workpiece remains supported and securely held. The tutorial notes that clamping becomes harder as the leg narrows; the pivot block helps maintain its position, but does not replace appropriate guarding, safe workholding or the saw manufacturer’s instructions.
For a four-legged table, Heavey says a conventional taper jig would require 16 setups for four-sided tapers, while the indexed stops let the builder repeat the setup. This is the tutorial’s comparison, not an independently measured productivity result.
Rank #2
- INCLUDES: (1) Table Saw Taper Cutting Jig with 24” rails with work stops, ergonomic handle, lock knob and laser etched scale
- FUNCTION: Used as a taper cutting guide for table saws, this easy-to-use carpentry tool helps you make long cut cuts at angles from 1” per foot (4.8 degrees) or up to 3” per foot (15 degrees)
- VERSATILE: Perfect for making angled cuts, projects that require a little taper or other woodworking projects such as building kitchen table legs, chairs, wood shelves, wedges and more.
- PREMIUM: Made with an extremely durable, yet lightweight extruded aluminum construction that offers anti-corrosive properties and a high strength-to-weight ratio for heavy-duty applications
- FEATURES: Sturdy construction and design with extruded legs with anodized finish, tapered handle with rounded head and textured finish,adjustable 0–15° Taper Range with Laser-Engraved Scale
How this differs from other four-sided taper sleds
The pivot-hole system is not interchangeable with every taper-sled method. Fine Woodworking describes a different sled approach in which the last two cuts must account for the face already tapered; the fence may need adjustment, and an offcut may be needed beneath the blank for the fourth cut. Matthew Doering describes another alternative: start with a blank about 2 inches longer and stop the tapers short of one end, leaving a square block to register the part. That block can preserve positioning through all four cuts and allow clamping at both ends. These are separate designs, not extra steps for the WOOD pivot-block jig.
| Design choice | WOOD pivot-block jig | Other sled methods described |
|---|---|---|
| Registration | A drilled end hole fits over a 1/4-20 pivot bolt. | A retained square end block can register the blank in Matthew Doering’s method; the Fine Woodworking sled accounts for the already tapered face on later cuts. |
| Workholding | Adjustable T-slot hold-downs and stop blocks; clamping becomes more difficult as the taper develops. | Doering’s square block allows clamping at both ends. Workholding details differ by sled. |
| Fence adjustment for faces three and four | The WOOD description uses indexing to reposition the workpiece; it does not prescribe the alternate sled’s fence adjustments. | The Fine Woodworking method says later cuts must account for the new tapered face and may require a fence adjustment. |
| Offcut or support for the final cut | Not stated as a requirement for the pivot-block design. | The Fine Woodworking method may use an offcut under the blank for the fourth cut; Doering’s retained square block avoids that step in his method. |
| Fit to a particular saw and stock | Requires adapting sled size, slot and clamp compatibility, and clearances to the saw and leg blank. | Also depends on the chosen sled’s dimensions, workpiece and saw setup; no universal dimensions are stated for these alternatives. |
Complete joinery before tapering
Cut the leg’s mortises or biscuit joinery while the blank still has straight sides. This sequencing is recommended in both the WOOD material and the Fine Woodworking guide, and avoids doing that layout and machining on already tapered faces.
Recommended Free Tools
Rank #3
- ASSEMBLY CONTAINS: 36” Miter Bar, Base, Adjustable Fence, Push Knob, Hold Down Clamps, Tape Measure, Abrasive Grip Strips, T-Bolts, Hardware Screws, Washers and Mini Screw Driver
- FUNCTIONS: Primarily serves as a taper cutting jig for table saw – Secondarily operates as a stable straight line ripping jig – Your creativity is the limit
- PREMIUM BUILD: This woodworking taper jig is manufactured with high quality components; The base measures 32” x 7-7/8” ½” with MDF construction and melamine coating on both sides; Features a safe and easy-to-use design, indexing marks for easy angle setting, ergonomic anti-slip push knob, adjustable fence and hold down clamps to prevent shifting stock, abrasive grip strips to help stabilize your workpiece and detailed instructions for all skill levels
- VERSATILE: Perfect for cutting tapered compound angles, straight line table saw ripping, making handmade furniture, and a wide range of applications such as making chair legs, building tables, custom built shelves or base cabinets and more. PLEASE NOTE: It fits tight and securely in any standard 3/8" x 3/4" miter slot.
- PLEASE NOTE: The taper jig is designed to fit full-sized table saws with miter slots measuring ¾” x 3/8” and an inside edge of the right miter slot between 3-3/4” to 4-3/8”, 5” to 5-5/8”, or 6-1/4” to 6-7/8” from the blade. It is compatible with the DWE7491RS but may not fit some job site or bench top saws. Please check your saw's specifications before ordering.
The Fine Woodworking guide’s orientation advice—placing the thin end closest to the operator—applies to its sled setup, not automatically to the WOOD jig. Follow the table-saw manufacturer’s instructions and use the guards and workholding appropriate to your machine and setup.
Quick Recap
Rank #4
- PRECISION TAPER CUTS MADE EASY: The MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER TJ5000 tapering jig is designed for use with table saws, router tables, and band saws; It delivers angle accuracy within 1/8 of a degree, making it an essential woodworking tool
- VERSATILE ANGLE ADJUSTMENTS: Achieve perfect set up every time with the color coded MICRODIAL scales; 122 built-in presets create the perfect angle every time from 0-10 degrees of angle or by Rise over Run for tapered table legs
- SAFE AND CONTROLLED OPERATION: Pair with one or two MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblocks (available separately) for safety and stability, ensuring the Microdial Tapering Jig integrates with your table saw parts setup
- CONSISTENT REPEAT CUTS: Two independent MemoryLocks allow quick angle switching, ideal for creating 2-, 4-, 6-, or 8-sided tapered legs with confidence; Add more detail and create custom profiles on the router table
- MADE IN THE USA: This Microdial Tapering Jig is built for crafting tapered legs for Federal, Mission, Midcentury Modern and contemporary furniture legs; It includes an instructional DVD and manual to guide you through set up and use
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