Yes—high-speed-steel (HSS) lathe tools can be shaped on a belt sander, provided the machine is suitable for metalworking and you can support the blank steadily. A flat platen can make it easier to align and grind a face than a conventional bench grinder, according to the practitioner behind the example below. That is workshop experience, not proof that every belt sander is faster or better. The essential work is choosing geometry for the cut, grinding it consistently, and keeping hands clear of the moving belt.
Why use a belt sander for HSS lathe tools?
The practitioner author favors a sander with a wide belt and rigid, flat platen because the platen gives a broad reference surface for holding and aligning a tool face. He also cites quick belt changes and not having to dress a grinding wheel. In his experience, a conventional bench grinder can remove material slowly, run hot, and leave beginners with uneven facets. These are his reasons for preferring the setup for hobby-lathe tools, not results from a controlled machine comparison. (MachinistBlog.com, originally published 2011 and updated 2022; Make:, 2011)
His example uses a 2-by-42-inch machine with a 1/2-HP motor, a rigid flat platen, and an adjustable table, starting with a 24-grit aluminum-oxide belt for shaping and moving to finer grits for a more polished finish. Those are details of his setup, not a required specification. Check that a machine is rated for metalworking and follow its manual; a platen and table arrangement that works on one sander may not work the same way on another.
Choose geometry for the work, not a universal angle chart
Tool geometry is a set of trade-offs. Relief angles provide clearance so the tool’s adjacent faces do not rub against the work. Rake angles affect chip flow and cutting behavior. The lead angle—the orientation of the cutting edge relative to the workpiece—can influence finish and cutting forces. Side rake is described by the author as especially influential, but no angle works in isolation: material, operation, access, workpiece flexibility, and edge strength all matter. A geometry that reduces cutting resistance or improves access can leave a weaker edge.
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For one general-purpose right-hand tool, the author demonstrates a 3/8-inch HSS blank with the following geometry. He presents it as a compromise for steel, aluminum, plastics, and stainless steel—not as an optimum for any one material or a required standard. (MachinistBlog.com, originally published 2011 and updated 2020)
| Feature | Example angle or size |
|---|---|
| Side relief | 15 degrees |
| End relief | 15 degrees |
| Side rake | 15 degrees |
| Back rake | 15 degrees |
| End cutting edge | 80–85 degrees |
| Nose radius | 1/64 to 1/32 inch |
One all-purpose shape may be convenient, but the author notes that material- and operation-specific tools can do better. Roughing, facing, and finishing can call for different balances of edge strength, clearance, chip control, and access. For threading, he recommends checking the form with a 60-degree fishtail template; for the small-lathe example, he advises about 15 degrees of side relief and a very small flat at the tip. For parting, he recommends an HSS blade-type or T-type tool and discusses relief and rear mounting. Treat these as his recommendations for the cases described, not universal rules. (MachinistBlog.com, originally published 2011 and updated 2020)
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Basic grinding sequence
The author’s usual order is side, end, then top, though he says the order is not mandatory. Grinding the top earlier can help ensure the top and side faces meet at the cutting edge. The exact way to present the blank and set the table depends on the machine.
- Practice the hold first. If you are new to grinding, rehearse holding and moving a similar-size piece of mild-steel key stock before working on HSS. The author recommends it as inexpensive practice stock that is easier to grind. Keep the intended blank supported consistently.
- Set the first relief face. Set the table for the intended relief angle, if your machine has an adjustable table, and establish a repeatable way to support the blank. Let the belt cut with moderate pressure rather than forcing the tool into it.
- Grind the side, then the end. Move the tool across the belt width while grinding to distribute contact and help avoid facets. Maintain control of the blank and keep your hands away from the abrasive and nip points.
- Form the top face. Present the tool at the angle needed for the intended rake. In the author’s example, grinding stops when the face reaches the cutting edge. Do not assume another machine’s table or platen should be set up identically.
- Refine only as needed. Move to finer grits if the desired finish calls for them; the author also describes optional hand honing. The shaping belt and grit progression in his example are not requirements for every tool.
Safety: do not wear gloves near the moving belt
The tutorial author recommends eye and hearing protection, a dust mask, and leather gloves. Do not follow the glove advice at the point of operation: OSHA’s 2021 belt-sander training material warns that gloves, loose clothing, loose hair, or jewelry can be pulled into the sanding area. It identifies contact with rotating parts and contact at the point of operation as the primary hazards. (OSHA, “Belt Sander – Trainer Script,” 2021)
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- Keep guards in place and hands clear of the belt and nip points.
- Secure hair and clothing; remove jewelry. Do not wear gloves near the moving belt.
- Use eye protection and any other protective equipment required by the machine manual and applicable workplace rules.
- Follow the particular sander’s instructions and make sure it is suitable for metalworking.
What the reported times and cutting example establish
The practitioner reports taking under four minutes to grind a 3/8-inch HSS tool and about two minutes less for a 1/4-inch tool. These are his experience figures, not independently measured benchmarks or a promise of how long a beginner will take. (MachinistBlog.com, originally published 2011 and updated 2020)
In the first article, he also describes a 0.050-inch-deep test cut in 12L14 mild steel on his hobby mini-lathe, comparing a carbide insert, standard-geometry HSS, and modified-geometry HSS tools. His account reports different operating behavior, including chatter, among those specific setups. It does not establish that one tool geometry or grinding machine will perform the same way on other lathes, materials, or cuts. (MachinistBlog.com, originally published 2011 and updated 2022)
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