Choose a bandsaw blade for the cut, the stock thickness and the limits in your saw’s manual. Then set enough tension to support the cut without overloading the saw. WOOD Magazine’s guidance below offers practical rules of thumb—not model-specific specifications—for matching blade pitch and width and checking tension.
Match the blade to the cut
Blade features affect how quickly the saw cuts, how clean the surface is and how well the blade clears chips. WOOD Magazine defines the key terms this way:
- Gullet: the space between teeth that carries chips out of the cut.
- Pitch: the spacing between teeth, expressed as teeth per inch (TPI).
- Rake angle: the angle of a tooth’s face relative to the blade body.
- Set: the pattern in which teeth bend to either side, creating the kerf—the cut made by the blade.
Choose pitch for the stock thickness
WOOD Magazine recommends having at least three and no more than twelve teeth in the wood at a time. Use stock thickness and TPI together: if too few teeth engage the work, the cut may be rough; if too many do, the smaller gullets have less room to clear chips. More teeth can leave a smoother surface, but chip clearance is reduced. Treat this as the magazine’s rule of thumb, not a universal standard for every blade, material or saw.
Choose blade width for the cut and saw
Blade width affects which cuts the blade suits, but the widest blade you can use is determined by your machine. For resawing, WOOD Magazine recommends fitting the widest blade allowed by the saw’s manual. When resawing stock more than six inches wide, the magazine advises slowing the feed rate.
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Before buying or installing a blade, check your saw’s manual for the required blade length and permitted width. The guidance here does not establish a blade size for your particular model.
Set blade tension without overtightening
Tension must support the blade during a cut. Too little can contribute to stalling or drift; too much puts extra stress on the saw and can shorten blade life. WOOD Magazine describes three ways to set or check tension, from a quick built-in scale to a test that uses a square.
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Use the built-in scale
Set tension according to the saw’s scale and manual. WOOD Magazine cautions that built-in scales often indicate more tension than is actually present, but says they are sufficient for most jobs.
Check with the deflection test
- Set tension using the saw’s scale, following the manual.
- Raise the upper blade guide and place a square one-eighth inch from the blade.
- Push the blade at its center with your thumb. Under moderate pressure, it should just touch the square.
Use the flutter test cautiously
WOOD Magazine describes the flutter test as a way to fine-tune tension. It involves running the saw with the guides withdrawn, so follow the machine’s manual and safety instructions before attempting it.
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- Withdraw the guides and set tension using the built-in scale.
- Turn on the saw, then reduce tension by a half-turn at a time until the blade visibly flutters.
- Increase tension until the flutter stops, then add a quarter- to a half-turn.
When a tension gauge makes sense
A tension gauge can provide a more accurate reading, but WOOD Magazine says that level of precision is unnecessary for most work. The scale and the magazine’s described checks are alternatives; a gauge is optional.
Set the guides after tensioning
Once tension is set, unplug the saw before adjusting the guides. Position the side guides close to the blade and set the thrust bearings so they just clear it. Consult the manual for your machine’s specific setup instructions.
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Release tension during extended downtime
If the saw will be unused for more than a day, WOOD Magazine advises detensioning the blade to reduce stress on the idle blade. Follow your saw manufacturer’s instructions for releasing and restoring tension.
Guidance attributed to WOOD Magazine Staff, “Find the right blade, right tension, right results,” updated July 7, 2023: WOOD Magazine’s bandsaw blade and tension guide.
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