To get rid of houseplant pests, first identify what is on the plant, isolate it from other plants, and use a treatment aimed at that pest and life stage. Washing, wiping, pruning, and adjusting watering can help with small infestations; labeled soaps, oils, or other controls may be appropriate in some cases. No method guarantees permanent eradication, and a severely infested plant may be best discarded.
What to do when you find bugs on a houseplant
- Isolate the plant. Move it away from other plants so pests are less likely to spread.
- Inspect closely. Check leaf undersides, new growth, stems, leaf joints and folds, the pot rim, and the growing medium. A hand lens can help with very small mites and insects.
- Identify the pest before treating. Different pests and life stages need different approaches. If you cannot identify a flying insect or other suspected pest, avoid applying a treatment based on a guess.
- Start with targeted physical or cultural controls. Depending on the pest, wash or wipe the plant, remove affected leaves, prune infested growth, clean up debris, or adjust watering.
- Use pesticides only when appropriate. Choose a product whose label permits use on the identified pest, the particular plant, and indoors. Follow the label for application and repeat timing; soaps and oils require direct coverage and may need repeat applications.
- Recheck the plant. Inspect it and nearby plants regularly for surviving pests or new signs of infestation. Some established problems are difficult to control; removing the plant may be the practical way to protect others.
How to identify and treat 10 common houseplant pests
1. Aphids
Aphids are small sap-feeding insects often found on tender new growth or leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew, distorted growth, and pale shed skins can be clues. Wash them from the plant, prune and dispose of infested parts, or use a labeled insecticidal soap or horticultural oil when appropriate.
2. Fungus gnats
These small dark flies hover around moist potting mix. The adults are mainly a nuisance; their larvae live in the growing medium and can feed on roots. Let the soil surface dry between waterings as the plant permits, avoid overwatering, and use yellow sticky cards to monitor or catch adults. A soil-applied product containing Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. israelensis (Bti) may target larvae if its label allows that use. Bti does not control adult gnats, and sticky cards do not reach larvae in the soil.
3. Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like small white cottony or waxy patches. They hide in leaf axils, folds, and crevices, and some infest roots. Remove or wash off small numbers. Labeled insecticidal soap or horticultural oil may help with suitable coverage. UC IPM also describes applying rubbing alcohol at 70% or less directly to mealybugs with a cotton swab; test a small area of the plant first, and remember that alcohol is flammable. Persistent, heavy infestations may be best handled by discarding the plant.
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Spider mites are mites, not insects, and are often found on leaf undersides. Fine webbing, stippling, or bronzing can signal an infestation. Wash foliage and inspect repeatedly; if further treatment is needed, use a labeled miticide or other product appropriate for the plant and pest. Dry indoor conditions can favor mite problems.
5. Soft scale
Soft scale may look like fixed brown or gray bumps on stems and leaves. Honeydew and yellowing can also occur. Scrape or remove small numbers, wash off crawling juveniles, and prune affected parts. Labeled oils or soaps may help, particularly against susceptible immature stages, but scale can be difficult to control.
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- Product kills insects such as mealybug, aphids, scale, and more through ingestion; this product will not harm insects that do not feed on plants
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6. Thrips
Thrips are slender, small insects that can scar leaves and flowers. Look for silvery or stippled damage and tiny dark specks of insect waste. Wash pests off and remove badly affected parts. If using a labeled soap or horticultural oil, cover leaf undersides and crevices and follow label directions for any repeat application.
7. Whiteflies
Tiny pale adults often fly up when a plant is disturbed. Immobile juveniles and honeydew may be visible on leaf undersides. Sticky traps can monitor or catch adults, while washing can remove eggs and juveniles where possible. Remove infested parts; repeated labeled soap or oil applications may be an option. For a severe infestation, discarding the plant may be more practical.
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Broad mites are so small that the damage may be easier to spot than the mites. New growth can become distorted, bronzed, thickened, or crinkled. Mississippi State University Extension notes that they can be difficult for homeowners to manage and that discarding an infested plant may be the best option.
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9. Springtails
Springtails are tiny organisms that may jump on damp potting soil, especially after watering. They are generally a low-damage nuisance rather than a pest causing comparable plant injury. Reduce excess moisture and let the soil dry between waterings as the plant’s needs permit. University of Minnesota Extension says pesticides are not a treatment for springtails.
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10. Shore flies
Shore flies are small flies associated with wet growing media and algae, and can be mistaken for fungus gnats. Identify the fly before treating: the fungus-gnat approaches of sticky cards and Bti should not be assumed to control shore flies. The available home-control guidance does not establish a distinct treatment for shore flies.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Choose a control that matches the pest
| Approach | Best fit | Important limit |
|---|---|---|
| Wash, wipe, prune, or remove pests by hand | Small, accessible infestations such as aphids, mealybugs, or thrips | Inspect folds, undersides, and crevices; hidden pests may remain. |
| Adjust watering and allow the surface to dry as the plant permits | Fungus gnats and moisture-associated springtails | Do not let a plant dry beyond what its care needs allow. |
| Yellow sticky cards | Monitoring or catching flying adult fungus gnats and whiteflies | They do not reach soil larvae or pests attached to foliage. |
| Soil-applied Bti | Fungus gnat larvae, when the product label permits | It does not control adult gnats. |
| Labeled insecticidal soap or horticultural oil | Some aphids, mealybugs, scale, thrips, and whiteflies | Use only where the label permits; direct coverage matters, and repeat applications may be needed. |
| Discard the plant | Severe or persistent infestations that are impractical to control | Dispose of it carefully to reduce the chance of spreading pests to nearby plants. |
How to reduce the chance of pests spreading
- Inspect new plants before placing them near established houseplants; keep them separate while checking for signs of pests.
- When a problem appears, inspect nearby plants as well as the affected one.
- Remove infested plant debris and keep the growing area clean.
- Use traps as monitoring aids, not as a substitute for identifying and treating pests in other parts of the plant or soil.
- For any pesticide, follow the label’s directions for the plant, pest, indoor setting, coverage, and repeat interval.
Sources and further guidance
- UC Statewide IPM Program: Houseplant Problems covers identification and management of several houseplant pests, isolation, pesticide labels, and when discarding a plant may be appropriate.
- University of Minnesota Extension: Managing insects on indoor plants explains inspection, physical removal, sticky traps, Bti for fungus gnat larvae, and springtail moisture management.
- Colorado State University Extension: Managing Houseplant Pests, published May 2025 and reviewed August 2025, discusses pest descriptions, cultural controls, and inspecting new plants.
- Mississippi State University Extension Service: Insect Pests of Houseplants includes broad mites and notes the difficulty of managing them in a home setting.
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