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A guide bushing—also called a template guide, templet guide, or guide collar—is a short tube fitted around a router bit. The router bit spins inside the tube while the bushing’s outside edge follows a template, jig, straightedge, or trammel. Because the bushing holds the bit at a known distance from the guide, you can reproduce shapes, rout hinge mortises, cut lettering, make inlays, and produce repeated parts.
The important point is that a guide bushing does not usually make a cut the same size as the template. The result depends on the difference between the bushing’s outside diameter and the router bit’s cutting diameter—and on whether the bushing is following the inside or outside of the template.
What a guide bushing does
A router guide bushing is mounted in the router’s subbase, usually around the bit opening. Its cylindrical barrel projects below the base and rides against the edge of a template. The bit remains centered within the bushing, so the distance between the template edge and the cut stays predictable as the router moves.
A typical setup contains:
- a plunge or fixed-base router;
- a compatible subbase, adapter, or template-guide plate;
- a guide bushing with a known outside and inside diameter;
- a router bit that fits inside the bushing; and
- a securely attached template or jig.
Templates are commonly made from hardboard, plywood, MDF, acrylic, or another stable sheet material. Their edges should be smooth and accurately shaped. Any bump, waviness, or damaged corner on the template can be transferred to the workpiece.
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The guide-bushing offset calculation
The radial offset is:
Offset = (guide-bushing outside diameter − router-bit diameter) ÷ 2
For example, a bushing with a 3/4-inch outside diameter and a 1/2-inch bit produces:
(3/4 − 1/2) ÷ 2 = 1/8 inch
The cutting edge is therefore offset from the template edge by 1/8 inch. Because the offset occurs on both sides of an opening or shape, the total dimensional difference across that feature can be 1/4 inch.
Inside and outside templates
The words “inside” and “outside” cause many guide-bushing mistakes, so it helps to think about where the bushing is touching:
- Inside a template opening: the bushing follows the inside wall of the template. With a bushing larger than the bit, the bit cuts inward from that wall. A routed opening will generally be smaller than the template opening by twice the radial offset.
- Around the outside of a template: the bushing follows the template’s outside edge. The finished pattern or cut is offset from that edge in the opposite direction, commonly making the copied part larger than the template by twice the radial offset.
The exact result also depends on whether the template represents the finished part, a waste boundary, or a clearance boundary. Before routing an expensive workpiece, make a scrap test using the exact bushing, bit, template thickness, and routing direction. Measure the test cut rather than relying only on the nominal sizes.
| Bushing outside diameter | Bit diameter | Radial offset | Total difference across an opening |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3/4 in. | 1/2 in. | 1/8 in. | 1/4 in. |
| 1 in. | 1/2 in. | 1/4 in. | 1/2 in. |
| 5/8 in. | 1/4 in. | 3/16 in. | 3/8 in. |
How to choose a compatible guide bushing
Guide bushings are not universally interchangeable. The correct accessory is determined first by the router model and the subbase—not by the desired bushing diameter alone.
- Identify the exact router model. Compact routers, full-size routers, router lifts, and plunge bases may use different interfaces.
- Check the manufacturer’s manual or accessory documentation. Look for accepted template-guide systems, subbase dimensions, and adapter requirements.
- Check the subbase bore and counterbore. The common two-piece Porter-Cable-style system is intended for router subbases with an approximately 1-3/16-inch center hole and a 1-3/8-inch counterbore. Porter-Cable’s 42000 kit specifies compatibility with standard 1-3/16-inch center-hole subbases, but that does not make it universal.
- Confirm the locking method. Some bushings use a threaded retaining ring, while others use a quick-change adapter, a model-specific nut, or a replacement subbase.
- Check the bushing’s inside diameter. The bit must have clearance inside the guide. Never assume that a bit will fit simply because the bushing’s outside diameter is suitable.
- Check barrel length. The barrel should contact the template without extending so far that it rubs the workpiece below it.
Common compatibility systems
| System or brand path | What to verify | Important limitation |
|---|---|---|
| Porter-Cable-style threaded guides | Standard center-hole subbase, counterbore, retaining ring, and bit clearance | Common does not mean universal |
| Bosch quick-change guides | Supported Bosch router family and the correct quick-change adapter | Bosch systems may be proprietary; the RA1128 set also provides an interface for Porter-Cable-style threaded guides |
| Makita guides | Exact router model, guide size, and compatible template-guide nut or adapter | Accessories such as the 193264-4 guide and 321493-1 adapter are model-dependent |
| Festool systems | Required adapter for imperial two-piece threaded bushings | Do not assume a standard threaded bushing will mount directly |
| DeWalt routers | Router model and supplied or recommended subbase | Many full-size models use the Porter-Cable 42000-style solution, while the DWP611 compact router requires the DNP613 accessory subbase for standard 1-3/8-inch template guides |
For readers who need several standard threaded sizes, the PORTER-CABLE 42000 templet guide kit is a practical place to begin comparing options. It includes seven guides, two lock nuts, and a storage box, with guides intended for general routing, dovetail work, and hinge-butt routing. Confirm the router’s subbase interface before buying; it should not be treated as a universal kit.
Choosing the bushing diameter
Guide bushings are available in multiple outside diameters. General-purpose systems commonly range from approximately 5/16 inch to 1 inch, with larger proprietary sizes also available.
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- Small outside diameters can enter tighter curves, narrow slots, and small template features.
- Large outside diameters provide a broader bearing surface against the template and can be more stable on long, straight edges.
- A larger bushing requires a larger template opening if the bushing must pass through the opening.
- The outside diameter controls the offset when paired with a particular bit, so changing bushings changes the finished dimensions.
The inside diameter is equally important. It must clear the bit throughout the cut, including any portion of the bit that passes through the bushing. Follow the router and bushing manufacturer’s maximum cutter-diameter guidance where provided.
Barrel length, centering, and fit
Barrel length
The bushing barrel should be shorter than, or at least appropriately matched to, the template thickness. If it extends through a thin template and contacts the workpiece, it can scratch the surface, increase friction, and alter the router’s movement.
Some brass or steel bushings can be shortened carefully when necessary. That work must not distort the tube, damage the mounting threads, or reduce clearance around the bit. Replacing the bushing with a correctly sized accessory is usually safer than modifying one.
Centering
The bushing must be centered around the router bit. If it is off-center, the gap between the bit and the bushing changes as the router moves. The same template can then produce different offsets in different directions, which is especially problematic when making matching parts or fitting inlays.
Use a centering cone or the manufacturer’s approved centering procedure whenever one is available. Tighten the bushing only after it is seated correctly, and check that the retaining ring, nut, or quick-release mechanism is fully engaged.
Making and attaching a template
- Choose stable material. Hardboard, MDF, plywood, and acrylic can all work. Select material that is flat and thick enough to support the bushing without flexing.
- Lay out the template with the offset in mind. Decide whether the bushing will follow an inside opening or an outside edge, then apply the calculated offset to the template or finished dimension.
- Cut and smooth the edge. Sand away bumps and remove splinters. A template edge is a reference surface, not just a rough cutting guide.
- Secure the template and workpiece. Clamps, screws in waste areas, or suitable double-sided routing tape can be used according to the job. The template must not shift while the bushing is bearing against it.
- Add a backer or spoilboard for through-cuts. This protects the bench and helps reduce breakout as the bit exits the workpiece.
- Test on scrap. Use the final bit and bushing combination, then measure the cut and adjust the template if needed.
For shop-made templates, stable hardboard, MDF, or acrylic and a reliable template-attachment method are more useful than simply choosing the thickest available material. The template must remain flat and stationary throughout the cut.
Common guide-bushing applications
Pattern routing and duplicate parts
A reusable template can produce matching handles, curved furniture components, openings, legs, and other shapes. Fasten the template firmly, use controlled shallow passes, and keep the same bit-and-bushing combination for every matching part. Changing either component changes the offset and can make supposedly identical parts different.
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Dovetail jigs
Dovetail jigs often depend on a precise relationship between the guide bushing, bit, and jig slot. Use the bushing size and bit specified for the particular jig. A bushing that fits the router may still be wrong for the jig because its outside diameter changes how the bit tracks through the slot.
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Hinge templates allow repeatable hinge recesses in doors, boxes, and cabinets. The template guide must fit the template opening and the bit must remove the intended amount of material. Some accessory sets include guides intended for hinge-butt routing or hinge-radius work, but compatibility with the router and template still needs to be checked.
Inlay work
Inlay systems use a template guide and a matching inlay bushing or collar. One setup cuts the recess; another cuts the mating inlay piece. The two profiles match because the bushings and their offsets are selected as a system.
A typical inlay set may include a template guide, ring nut, matching inlay bushing, and hex key, while the router bit and pattern are separate components. A router inlay bushing set can therefore be useful for this specialized work, but verify the router-base interface and the exact matching dimensions before purchase.
Lettering and signs
Letter templates can be followed with a guide bushing and a straight or specialty bit. Small internal corners and tight curves may require a smaller bushing and bit, while a large bushing can make narrow letter features inaccessible. Secure the lettering template carefully because even a small shift is obvious in the finished sign.
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A shop-made shelf-pin template can use holes sized to the bushing’s outside diameter. A plunge router with a bit matching the shelf-pin diameter can then create consistently spaced holes. Control the plunge depth, keep the template aligned to a fixed reference edge, and secure it before every row.
Circle cutting and trammels
A guide bushing can fit into a hole in a shop-made trammel. The router pivots around a nail, screw, or pin to cut a circle. Measure the intended radius from the bit’s cutting edge, not simply from the center of the bushing or pivot hole.
Use progressively deeper passes rather than cutting the full depth at once. For a typical handheld circle-cutting setup, feed counterclockwise around the outside of the work. Confirm the trammel is rigid and the pivot cannot pull out during the cut.
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Sliding dovetails and specialty jigs
Some sliding-dovetail and specialty joinery jigs are designed around a specific bushing-to-bit relationship. Calculate the offset for the exact components instead of assuming that nominal sizes will align. A small dimensional error can produce a joint that is too loose or too tight.
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When routing around the outside edge of a template, feed the router counterclockwise. When routing inside an opening, feed it clockwise. This follows conventional handheld-router feed practice and helps prevent an uncontrolled climb cut.
Use these setup checks:
- Disconnect power before changing the bit, guide bushing, adapter, or subbase.
- Make sure the guide is seated flat and secured with the correct nut, ring, or quick-release mechanism.
- Verify that the bit does not exceed the bushing’s internal clearance.
- Clamp or otherwise secure both the workpiece and template.
- Keep hands outside the cutter and router travel path.
- Set the plunge depth before starting and make multiple shallow passes for deep cuts.
- Use a backer or spoilboard for through-cuts.
- Inspect the template edge and bushing for damage before routing.
A guide bushing can make a cut repeatable, but it does not make an unstable template safe. If the template moves, the router can move with it.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Guide bushings versus bearing-guided router bits
A pattern bit or flush-trim bit uses a bearing that rides directly against a template edge or an existing workpiece edge. The bearing and cutter are generally aligned so the finished edge can be copied without calculating a bushing offset.
| Choose a guide bushing when… | Choose a bearing-guided bit when… |
|---|---|
| You need to follow a custom template opening or slot | You want a direct flush copy of an existing edge |
| You are cutting inlays, lettering, hinge mortises, or shelf-pin templates | The template can safely support the bearing |
| The finished edge must be intentionally offset from the template | No offset is wanted and the bearing diameter matches the job |
| A joinery jig specifies a particular guide-and-bit combination | A bearing-guided cutter provides the simplest setup |
Neither system is automatically better. A bearing-guided bit is often faster for direct pattern duplication. A guide bushing is more adaptable when the template must be offset, when the template is a slot or opening, or when a particular jig or inlay system dictates the geometry.
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Buying checklist
Before ordering a guide bushing or kit, confirm all of the following:
- exact router model and base;
- subbase center-hole and counterbore dimensions;
- threaded, quick-change, or adapter-based mounting system;
- bushing outside diameter;
- bushing inside diameter and maximum permitted cutter diameter;
- barrel length relative to the template thickness;
- required retaining ring, nut, adapter, or replacement subbase;
- bit diameter and the resulting calculated offset;
- whether the guide is specified for the dovetail, hinge, inlay, or other jig being used.
Brand-specific alternatives can be appropriate: Bosch router owners may need the RA1128 eight-piece template-guide set or its supported adapter arrangement, and selected Makita routers may use accessories such as the 193264-4 3/8-inch template guide with the appropriate template-guide adapter and nut. These are compatibility paths, not universal substitutes for one another.
Common problems and fixes
The cut is the wrong size
Recalculate the offset using the actual bushing outside diameter and bit diameter. Check whether the bushing followed the inside or outside of the template, and verify that the template itself was made for the intended finished dimension.
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Matching parts do not match
Check that the same bit, bushing, router base, and feed direction were used. An off-center bushing or a template that shifted during one cut can also change the result.
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Inspect the bushing barrel length. It may be rubbing the workpiece below a thin template. Also check for a rough template edge, excessive cut depth, or a bushing that is not seated correctly.
The bushing will not fit the router
Do not force it. The router may use a proprietary quick-change system, a model-specific adapter, or a different subbase bore. Recheck the exact model and mounting dimensions.
The bit does not clear the bushing
Stop before powering the router. Use a guide with a larger inside diameter or a smaller compatible bit, while recalculating the offset and confirming the manufacturer’s clearance limits.
The template edge is damaged
Repair or replace the template. A guide bushing follows every irregularity it encounters, so sanding the workpiece will not reliably correct a distorted reference edge.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are guide bushings universal?
No. Porter-Cable-style threaded bushings are common, but Bosch quick-change systems, Makita accessories, Festool adapters, DeWalt compact-router solutions, and router-lift systems may use different interfaces. Match the guide to the exact router model and subbase.
Does a guide bushing make a cut the same size as the template?
Usually not. The difference is determined by the formula (bushing outside diameter − bit diameter) ÷ 2. The inside-versus-outside template arrangement determines whether the finished feature is larger or smaller than the template.
Can any router bit be used with a guide bushing?
Only if the bit fits inside the bushing with adequate clearance and is suitable for the operation. Check the bushing’s inside diameter and any manufacturer-stated maximum cutter diameter before routing.
Which is better: a guide bushing or a bearing-guided bit?
Use a bearing-guided bit for a straightforward flush copy when the bearing can ride safely on the template. Use a guide bushing when you need a calculated offset, a custom template opening, an inlay system, lettering, hinge work, or a jig that specifies a particular guide.
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The Bottom Line
A guide bushing turns a router and template into a repeatable cutting system, but accuracy depends on three things: the correct router-base interface, a centered and properly sized bushing, and the offset between the bushing and bit. Calculate that offset, test the setup on scrap, secure the template, and keep the same guide-and-bit combination whenever matching dimensions matter.
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