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A maker-built Raspberry Pi wall panel pairs a 7-inch touchscreen with a millimeter-wave radar sensor that can wake the display when someone approaches. Its 3D-printed enclosure makes it a useful reference for a custom smart-home control point, but it is a DIY computer installation—not a finished, certified wall appliance. Builders should expect to adapt the wiring, software, camera fit, and mounting details to their own hardware and site.
What the wall panel is
Tobias’s Raspberry Pi Wall Panel is a wall-mounted terminal intended to show Home Assistant dashboards and other browser-based interfaces. Rather than leaving a tablet or exposed development board on a shelf, the design puts a Raspberry Pi, a 7-inch touchscreen, touch inputs, and a presence sensor into a custom 3D-printed enclosure.
The dashboard itself is configured in Home Assistant, so it can present controls and information such as lights, scenes, climate, media, calendars, weather, or camera feeds. The creator also demonstrated switching between Home Assistant and a 3D-printer interface, illustrating that the panel is a small general-purpose computer rather than a single-purpose controller. The project was created in July 2024; the latest clearly dated project activity identified here is November 9, 2024. That history is useful context, but it is not evidence of ongoing maintenance or compatibility with current software releases.
How its presence sensing works
The enclosure includes an LD2410C-P millimeter-wave radar presence sensor. Unlike a basic motion detector that generally responds to movement, this type of sensor is intended to detect a person who remains relatively still—for example, someone standing at the panel and reading. In this project, a simple high/low output from the sensor is wired to Raspberry Pi GPIO 4 and used to control the display backlight. That is distinct from a Home Assistant occupancy automation: the documented implementation connects the sensor directly to the Pi for display behavior.
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Hackster’s project summary gives an approximate useful detection range of 0.75 to 5 meters. Treat that as reported coverage, not a guaranteed range in a particular room. Direction, sensitivity settings, nearby surfaces, furniture, partitions, and the approach path can all affect what the sensor detects. A sensor aimed toward a hallway may wake the screen for people who are not approaching it; nearby movement or reflections may also keep the display on longer than intended.
The creator reported that the sensor worked behind approximately 0.4 mm of PLA without a noticeable effect. That is a project-specific observation, not a material specification for all plastics, print thicknesses, sensor boards, or mounting positions. Test the sensor behind the final printed faceplate and in its installed orientation before closing the enclosure. A timeout before switching the screen off, a restricted detection zone where supported, and a manual wake option can make the behavior less frustrating.
Documented hardware
| Part | Role | Build note |
|---|---|---|
| Raspberry Pi | Runs the graphical Linux environment and browser. | The project does not specify one universally required model. Check the case, GPIO arrangement, power needs, and software compatibility for the model you choose. |
| Waveshare 7-inch HDMI LCD C touchscreen | Provides the display and touchscreen interface. | This is the documented display; a substitute can require changes to the enclosure, adapters, and cable routing. See the Waveshare product page. |
| LD2410C-P presence sensor | Supplies a presence output used for display wake behavior. | Verify the exact board, voltage requirements, pin labels, and output behavior; LD2410-family variants should not be assumed interchangeable. |
| Two TTP223 capacitive touch sensors | Provide hardware shortcut inputs in addition to the touchscreen. | The project uses them for button-like input, including switching between browser applications or workspaces. |
| HDMI and USB ribbon-cable parts and right-angle adapters | Route display and USB connections inside the enclosure. | The component list includes two 20-centimeter USB/HDMI ribbon cables and micro-HDMI and micro-USB/USB-A parts. Confirm connector compatibility with the selected Pi and display before assembly. |
| M3 × 8 mm self-tapping screws | Fasten enclosure components. | Check engagement and clearance against the printed parts; hardware may need adapting to print tolerances. |
| Camera (optional) | Could support camera viewing or video applications. | The enclosure’s camera provision may need redesign for a Raspberry Pi Camera Module V3; it is not a turnkey video-calling setup. |
| PoE hardware (optional) | Can combine wired networking and power at the panel. | The project later discussed an RT9460 PoE module, but PoE was initially described as in progress. Confirm the whole power path and available power budget. |
The project’s component list is a reference, not a guaranteed plug-and-play kit. The exact Pi, camera, PoE equipment, mount, and cable arrangement can change the fit and electrical requirements.
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- 【Easy Installation】Both wired and wireless network connections are supported, and the power supply supports both modes: TYPE-C mode and circuit connection.
Creator-documented GPIO wiring
The project page documents this mapping for a Raspberry Pi 4. It is provided as a record of the creator’s build, not a universal wiring prescription:
| Physical pin | GPIO or function | Connection |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 3.3 V | LD2410C-P VCC |
| 7 | GPIO 4 | LD2410C-P OUT |
| 9 | Ground | LD2410C-P ground |
| 17 | 3.3 V | Both TTP223 sensors’ VCC |
| 19 | GPIO 10 | Right TTP223 I/O |
| 21 | GPIO 9 | Left TTP223 I/O |
| 25 | Ground | Both TTP223 sensors’ ground |
The creator noted that wiring was not fully documented. Before connecting anything, check the pinout and voltage requirements of the exact sensor boards and Raspberry Pi, and verify that the selected pins are not already assigned to another device. Do not transfer this table blindly to another Pi model or sensor variant. If you are not confident about low-voltage electronics, have the circuit checked before powering it.
Touchscreen, buttons, and software
There are three separate kinds of input and control in the design:
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- 10.1 inch capacitive touch screen, 1280*800P resolution
- Android 14 OS, RK3576 processor, 4GB RAM +64GB ROM,
- Support WIFI 6E / 1000MB Ethernet /BLE 5.3
- Support RJ45 POE power supply
- Support I/O, IR, RS-232, RS485 serial protocol supported
- Touchscreen: direct interaction with the displayed Home Assistant dashboard or other browser content.
- TTP223 sensors: physical capacitive shortcut buttons. In a project log, the creator describes using a device-tree overlay so their events could act like keyboard presses, helping switch browser views or workspaces.
- Radar presence output: an automatic signal for display backlight behavior, rather than a dashboard button.
At a high level, the software stack is a Raspberry Pi graphical Linux desktop with browser windows showing Home Assistant or other web applications. Project logs discuss multiple browser windows, workspace placement, Wayfire during earlier development, and a later move to Labwc in Raspberry Pi OS. That change matters: window-manager and autostart instructions can become version-sensitive. The logs also mention a Waveshare RPi USB brightness library for brightness or backlight control.
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Random freezes, missing sound and display glitches usually trace back to one bad driver. Find and replace yours safely.Free scan · under a minuteUse the project’s GitHub repository and README for the current files and setup notes rather than relying on an old menu path or command sequence. This article does not establish that those instructions work unchanged on current Raspberry Pi OS. Plan a panel-specific dashboard with large, high-contrast controls, little scrolling, and a useful fallback view; a phone-oriented dashboard can be awkward on a fixed 7-inch landscape screen.
Printing and mounting considerations
A printed enclosure lets a builder control the appearance and layout, but it also makes the installation sensitive to printer calibration, material shrinkage, and the exact parts used. The creator’s presence-sensor test through a thin PLA faceplate does not establish that every enclosure geometry will work. Print a fit-check or prototype where practical, especially if changing the screen, camera, or PoE hardware.
Rank #4
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- Plan service access: the Raspberry Pi remains a computer that may need storage, cable, or software attention. Avoid a mounting arrangement that requires damaging the wall or enclosure to reach it.
- Route and secure cables: HDMI adapters and ribbon cables add connectors inside a shallow case. Check bend radius, strain relief, connector seating, and clearance before fastening the faceplate.
- Check the mounting substrate: choose fasteners and an attachment method suitable for the wall construction and the assembled panel’s weight. The project’s M3 screws are for enclosure assembly, not necessarily for fixing the panel to a wall.
- Allow for heat: a Pi, display, and optional power converter in a compact enclosure need a sensible thermal path. Do not assume the printed case is suitable for a sealed cavity or installation inside a wall.
- Finish expectations: bed texture, visible layer lines, fit, and surface finish depend on the printer and finishing work. Sanding, filling, painting, or reprinting may be needed for an appliance-like result.
This is a low-voltage maker project, not documented as certified in-wall electrical equipment. Keep mains wiring out of the printed enclosure unless a separately engineered, code-compliant design explicitly supports it. A wall-mounted low-voltage panel still needs secure mounting, appropriate cable routing, and access for inspection and repair.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.PoE and camera: useful extensions, not guaranteed features
Power over Ethernet can reduce visible cabling and provide a wired network connection when Ethernet is already available at the installation point. But an enclosure that has room for PoE hardware does not by itself make a complete PoE system. The chosen module must suit the Pi, provide adequate converted voltage and current for the Pi, screen, USB devices, and any camera, and work with the switch or injector. Startup load, cable quality and length, connector and wiring compatibility, and heat inside the case all matter. The project’s later RT9460-module description is a build detail, not a blanket recommendation for any Pi or display combination.
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The camera opening similarly indicates design intent, not a finished conferencing feature. Camera software is separate from the panel design, and the creator suggested changing the model to accommodate a Raspberry Pi Camera Module V3. Confirm the mounting geometry and cable path before printing a final enclosure.
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- Shelly Wall Display XL Black - WiFi Smart home control panel with a 10.1” touch display, built-in relay switching and four customizable buttons. Installs in a standard electrical wall box and gives you full, easy control over your Shelly devices-ideal for houses, apartments, hotels, and commercial spaces.
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Likely troubleshooting points
| Symptom | What to check |
|---|---|
| Display fails to wake or stay off | Check GPIO wiring, the display revision and brightness-control method, and whether the software is controlling backlight brightness or merely blanking the screen. Window-manager behavior and insufficient power can also matter. |
| Panel wakes when nobody is using it | Re-aim the sensor away from a doorway or unintended area, test through the finished faceplate, and adjust its detection settings where available. Add an off-delay and retain a manual control. |
| Touch shortcuts do nothing | Verify sensor power and ground, GPIO assignments, device-tree overlay configuration, and whether the operating system receives the expected key event. Confirm the left/right mapping in software. |
| Dashboard is difficult to use | Review browser scaling, orientation, authentication timeouts, scrolling, and the dashboard’s layout. Complex cards or camera feeds may also be demanding for the selected Pi. |
| PoE setup is unstable | Recheck module compatibility, available PoE budget, conversion output, cable, startup demand, and enclosure temperature. Do not troubleshoot by assuming that every PoE module is electrically equivalent. |
| Camera does not fit or work | Check the camera model, mounting points, cable routing, and software independently; the original provision may require modification for newer camera hardware. |
Who should build it?
This project suits Home Assistant users and makers who want a customized enclosure, Linux and browser flexibility, GPIO access, hardware shortcuts, and presence-aware screen behavior—and who are comfortable iterating on a print and maintaining a small computer. It is also a strong design reference for adapting to a particular room or dashboard.
Choose a simpler arrangement if the priority is fast installation or easy replacement: a Raspberry Pi with a commercial touchscreen and separate wall bracket can be easier to service, while an Android tablet offers more integrated hardware but less direct GPIO access and its own battery, operating-system, and vendor-support concerns. An ESPHome/LVGL touchscreen may suit a few fixed controls with lower power and less browser flexibility. Commercial smart-home panels trade fabrication work for their own ecosystem and support constraints.
The central trade-off is control versus appliance simplicity. A Pi can run several interfaces and accept custom hardware, but it also brings operating-system updates, browser recovery, storage upkeep, power-loss handling, and heat management. The project is best approached as a reproducible maker build with adaptations—not as a finished product with guaranteed compatibility or support. The original project and its dated logs are available on Hackaday.io.
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