If something is digging holes in your garden, do not start by buying repellent. Start by identifying the hole. The diameter, mound shape, tunnel pattern, time of activity, and plant damage usually tell you more than the hole itself.
Most holes in lawns and gardens are feeding damage, not nesting. Skunks and raccoons dig for grubs. Moles tunnel for worms and insects. Voles chew roots and bulbs. Pocket gophers push soil plugs. Groundhogs and rats make larger burrows near cover, sheds, decks, compost, and foundations. Squirrels and chipmunks leave small clean holes while caching food.
On our job sites, we treat animal digging the same way we treat a drainage or settlement complaint: diagnose first, disturb as little as possible, and fix the access or food source that caused the problem. A $12 bottle of scent repellent may buy a few days. A properly buried hardware-cloth apron, tight gate, corrected drainage edge, or grub treatment used at the right time can solve the actual problem.
Start With a 24- to 48-Hour Hole Inspection
Before you fill every hole or spray the bed, document what is happening. Many homeowners erase the best evidence on day one and then guess for weeks.
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Use a tape measure, phone camera, gloves, flashlight or headlamp, and a few marking flags. A basic inspection kit costs $0 to $40 if you already have common household tools. Photograph each hole with a ruler beside it. Measure the opening, note whether there is loose soil, and look for raised tunnels, clipped plants, missing bulbs, droppings, tracks, or rolled-back sod.
Then smooth a small patch of disturbed soil lightly with your shoe or a rake. Do not pack it hard. You can dust a thin line of flour or dry sand near the entrance to show fresh tracks overnight. Check the area at dawn for new digging. Repeat the check for 24 to 48 hours if the damage is not obvious.
Record these details:
- Hole diameter: 1 inch, 2 inches, 3 to 5 inches, or 10 inches and larger.
- Mound shape: no mound, cone-shaped divot, fan-shaped mound, volcano mound, or large pile.
- Pattern: scattered holes, raised surface tunnels, open runways, or one main entrance.
- Timing: overnight damage usually points to skunks, raccoons, armadillos, rats, or some burrowing animals.
- Plant damage: clipped stems, eaten roots, disappearing bulbs, or turf peeled back.
- Location: open lawn, mulch edge, vegetable bed, compost area, shed, deck, slab, retaining wall, or fence line.
If the hole is under a patio, stoop, slab, shed, retaining wall, driveway, or foundation, treat it as more than a garden nuisance. Burrowing can create voids, water paths, settlement, and trip hazards. The animal must be excluded, but the structure may also need repair after the animal is gone.
Garden Hole Identification Table
The table below gives you a practical first read. It is not a substitute for local wildlife rules or a licensed inspection, but it will keep you from treating vole runways like mole tunnels or skunk feeding holes like groundhog burrows.
| Clue | Likely Animal | What It Usually Means | First Response |
|---|---|---|---|
| Many cone-shaped holes about 3 inches wide and 3 inches deep, often appearing overnight | Skunk | Night feeding for grubs and soil insects | Confirm grub pressure, remove attractants, use temporary repellent, improve lawn health |
| Larger shallow holes or sod peeled and rolled back | Raccoon | Feeding on grubs, earthworms, or other soil food | Secure trash and compost, check grub levels, repair loose sod |
| Raised surface tunnels and volcano-like soil mounds | Mole | Insect and worm feeding tunnels, not root eating | Locate active tunnels; hire a trained trapper where needed |
| 1- to 2-inch openings, surface runways in grass or mulch, clipped vegetation, damaged bulbs or roots | Vole | Rodent feeding on plants and using covered runways | Reduce mulch depth, clear cover, protect roots and trunks with mesh |
| Fan- or crescent-shaped soil mound with plugged opening | Pocket gopher | Underground burrow system damaging roots and irrigation | Protect beds with hardware cloth; consider professional trapping |
| Large 10- to 12-inch entrance with a noticeable soil pile and possible second escape hole | Groundhog | Established burrow that can undermine hardscape or small structures | Do not collapse blindly; call wildlife control near structures |
| Small clean holes, often shallow, with little soil | Squirrel or chipmunk | Food caching or small burrow entrance | Use exclusion over valuable beds and remove seed attractants |
| Multiple shallow 3- to 5-inch holes, common in Southern yards | Armadillo | Rooting for insects | Use sturdy fencing or exclusion; repellents are temporary |
| Burrows near compost, trash, foundation edges, retaining walls, or dense cover | Rat | Food, shelter, and structure access | Remove food sources, seal entries, hire pest control for structure work |
Small Shallow Holes: Skunks, Raccoons, Squirrels, Chipmunks, and Armadillos
Small holes scattered across turf or beds usually mean an animal is feeding. The fix is not just to repel the animal. You have to remove the reward that made the digging worthwhile.
Skunks
Skunk damage often shows up as many cone-shaped holes about 3 inches wide and 3 inches deep. The pattern can look like somebody jabbed a small trowel into the lawn over and over. Skunks usually work at night, especially where grubs and soil insects are easy to reach.
If you see this pattern, avoid the area after dark and do not corner the animal. Clean up fallen fruit, pet food, open compost, and spilled birdseed. If the lawn lifts easily like loose carpet, check for grub activity before treating. Grub control only makes sense when grubs are actually present at damaging levels. Repeated repellent spraying without addressing the food source usually becomes a maintenance loop.
Raccoons
Raccoons are stronger and more disruptive. They may dig larger shallow holes or peel and roll back sod to reach grubs, earthworms, and insects. We often see this where irrigation keeps turf soft and food-rich. Raccoons also follow trash, compost, pet food, and water sources.
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Squirrels and Chipmunks
Squirrels leave shallow divots when burying or retrieving nuts. Chipmunk burrow entrances are commonly around 2 inches wide and may have little or no obvious soil pile because they carry excavated soil away. Damage is usually worst near bird feeders, walls, stacked materials, shrubs, and dry-laid stone edges.
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The practical fix is exclusion around high-value beds. Cover newly seeded areas with wire mesh until germination, protect bulbs with hardware-cloth baskets, and move bird feeders away from vegetable beds. Repellents can discourage light activity, but they rarely stop a food-caching animal for long.
Armadillos
In much of the South and Southeast, armadillos leave multiple shallow holes about 3 to 5 inches wide while rooting for insects. They can also burrow under decks, slabs, and steps. A light ornamental fence will not stop a determined armadillo. Use a stout fence with a buried bottom or outward-facing apron, and close corners tightly.
Raised Tunnels and Soil Mounds: Moles, Voles, and Gophers
Moles, voles, and gophers are commonly confused, but they require different control methods. Treating all three the same is one of the fastest ways to waste money.
Moles
Moles usually create raised surface tunnels and volcano-like mounds. They eat insects, grubs, and earthworms. They are not eating your tomato roots, but their tunneling can dry out roots, lift turf, and make beds uneven.
Castor-oil repellents may push mole activity for a short period, especially in small areas, but they need reapplication after rain or irrigation. Active-tunnel trapping is usually more reliable. The challenge is finding the tunnels the mole is still using. Press down a short section of tunnel, mark it, and check it the next day. If it is raised again, it is active.
Professional mole or gopher control often runs about $50 to $500 or more, depending on tunnel count, number of trap sets, follow-up visits, soil conditions, and whether lawn repair is included.
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Voles
Voles are rodents and plant eaters. Look for 1- to 2-inch openings, narrow surface runways through grass or mulch, clipped stems, gnawed bark near the soil line, missing bulbs, and root damage. Mulch piled deep against stems gives voles cover and access.
Pull mulch back 3 to 6 inches from stems and trunks. Keep mulch 2 to 3 inches deep in most ornamental beds instead of piling it heavily at plant bases. Remove dense groundcover where runways are active. Use quarter-inch hardware cloth around young trunks, bulbs, and raised-bed bottoms. The barrier should protect the root zone without girdling the plant as it grows.
Pocket Gophers
Pocket gophers commonly make fan- or crescent-shaped mounds with plugged openings. They feed below grade and can damage roots, irrigation tubing, and garden beds. In Western and Plains states, gophers can be a major garden problem.
For raised beds, install hardware cloth under the bed before filling it. Use galvanized hardware cloth, commonly 1/2-inch mesh or smaller, fastened tightly to the bed frame. Overlap seams by at least 6 inches and wire them together so gaps do not open under soil pressure. For existing beds, protecting the perimeter may help, but a gopher already inside the bed has to be removed first.
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Large Burrows Near Structures Need a Different Level of Caution
A large entrance under a shed, slab, stoop, deck, retaining wall, or foundation edge is not just a lawn-care issue. Groundhogs, skunks, foxes, rats, and other animals can remove enough soil to create voids. Water then follows the softened path, which can worsen settlement or washout.
Groundhog burrows are often 10 to 12 inches wide with a prominent soil pile and secondary escape openings. They are especially concerning around sheds, patios, retaining edges, steps, and driveways. Do not block the main entrance until you know whether the animal is inside and whether young are present. Improper closure can trap animals, cause odor and sanitation problems, or drive them into a worse location.
For structure-adjacent burrows, the sequence matters:
- Identify the animal and active entrances.
- Check local wildlife rules for trapping, relocation, or exclusion.
- Exclude or remove the animal legally.
- Backfill and compact voids in lifts, not as one loose dump.
- Repair undermined hardscape, drainage edges, skirting, lattice, or foundation openings.
- Monitor for new digging for at least 2 weeks.
If the burrow is close to gas, electric, water, sewer, irrigation, communications lines, or a fence project that requires digging, contact 811 before excavation. Utility marking is free in most areas and should be requested before you dig, drive posts, trench, or excavate. Many states advise contacting 811 at least 2 to 3 business days before digging, but local timing varies.
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Repellents, Barriers, and Habitat Changes That Actually Help
Repellents and barriers are not the same thing. Repellents try to change behavior temporarily. Barriers change access. In construction terms, a repellent is a warning sign; a barrier is the locked door.
Use Repellents as Short-Term Pressure
Commercial repellents based on odor, taste, or castor oil can help in light-pressure situations. They work best when the animal has another place to go and when the food source is reduced. They also need reapplication after rain, irrigation, mowing, or heavy dew. Plan on reapplying every few days to every few weeks depending on the label and weather.
Avoid DIY poisons, mothballs, and off-label pesticide use. Mothballs are pesticides and are not a general outdoor animal repellent. Rodenticides and other pesticides must be used exactly according to the label, with special care around children, pets, wildlife, vegetable gardens, and water. If rats are involved near a structure, the better path is usually professional exclusion plus controlled trapping or baiting in tamper-resistant stations where legal.
Build Physical Exclusion Correctly
For small vegetable patches and raised beds, DIY exclusion often costs about $50 to $250 for hardware cloth, stakes, landscape staples, fasteners, and basic hand tools. Larger garden fencing commonly runs $3 to $15 or more per linear foot for materials, depending on welded wire versus hardware cloth, post type, height, gate count, and whether the bottom is buried or bent outward.
For most garden pests, the weak points are the bottom, corners, and gates. A fence that stops at soil level is easy to dig under. Bury hardware cloth 6 to 12 inches where practical, or bend the bottom outward into an L-shaped apron that extends 12 to 18 inches along the ground and pin it with landscape staples. The apron works because many animals dig at the fence line and do not back up to start beyond the wire.
Use 1/2-inch galvanized hardware cloth for rodents, voles, young rabbits, and gopher-prone raised beds. Welded wire with larger openings may work for deer or larger animals but will not stop small rodents. Keep gates tight with no 2-inch gaps at the bottom. Reinforce corners because animals exploit soft turns and loose seams.
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Remove Attractants
Attractant removal is unglamorous, but it is often the cheapest permanent fix. Secure trash. Keep compost balanced and covered. Do not leave pet food outside overnight. Pick up fallen fruit. Reduce spilled birdseed. Keep firewood and stored materials off the ground where possible. Thin dense vegetation along fence lines and foundations so runways are exposed.
For grub-driven digging, improve turf health and treat grubs only when inspection supports it. For vole pressure, reduce cover. For rats, remove food and seal structure entry points. For groundhogs, exclude them from the food source and address burrow access. The right fix follows the animal’s reason for being there.
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One free scan finds every outdated or missing driver and matches the right update for your exact hardware.Free scan · exact hardware matchWhat It Costs to Stop Animals Digging in a Garden
Costs vary by region, animal, access, season, and whether repair work is needed. A simple squirrel problem in a raised bed is not priced like a groundhog burrow under a patio.
| Work Type | Typical 2026 US Cost | What Drives the Price |
|---|---|---|
| DIY inspection and prevention basics | $0 to $40 | Tape measure, flashlight, gloves, marking flags, phone photos, flour or sand for tracking |
| DIY raised-bed or small garden exclusion | $50 to $250 | Hardware cloth, stakes, staples, fasteners, bed size, buried apron depth |
| Larger garden fencing materials | $3 to $15+ per linear foot | Wire type, post spacing, height, gate count, corners, buried bottom or apron |
| One-time general pest-control visit | About $171 average; broad range $50 to $500 | Pest type, property size, severity, treatment method, region |
| Quarterly pest-control plan | About $100 to $175 per visit, or $400 to $700 per year | Climate pressure, service scope, home size, contract terms |
| Monthly pest-control plan | About $75 to $125 per month in high-pressure climates | Ongoing rodent, insect, or wildlife pressure |
| Wildlife removal | Commonly $200 to $600; many jobs fall around $276 to $886 | Species, young present, number of visits, crawlspace or deck access, local rules |
| Mole or gopher control | About $50 to $500+ | Active tunnels, trap sets, follow-up visits, soil conditions, lawn repair |
| Rodent work around structures | Often $200 to $700; complex cleanup or repairs can exceed $1,000 | Entry sealing, trapping, contaminated insulation, crawlspace access, sanitation |
Repair costs are separate. Replacing a few square feet of sod is minor. Rebuilding a settled walkway edge, correcting drainage along a foundation, repairing irrigation lines, or backfilling a washed-out void costs more because it becomes construction work rather than pest control.
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DIY is reasonable when the holes are small, the animal is not entering a structure, there is no sign of illness or aggression, and the repair is limited to garden protection. Examples include squirrel caching, light chipmunk digging, vole runways in mulch, a small raised-bed exclusion project, or temporary repellent use while you remove attractants.
Hire a licensed pest or wildlife professional when you have large burrows, repeated overnight damage despite food-source correction, moles or gophers with active tunnel systems, rats near a building, animals under decks or slabs, or any situation involving raccoons, skunks, foxes, bats, sick animals, dead animals, or animals acting strangely. Wild animals account for more than 90% of reported rabies cases in the United States, and the major wildlife reservoirs include bats, raccoons, skunks, and foxes. Do not handle wildlife barehanded.
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Bring in a contractor or qualified repair professional after the animal issue is controlled if you see settlement, undermined pavers, cracked slab edges, sunken stoops, loose retaining wall blocks, fence posts moving in soft soil, drainage channels, or voids that keep reopening. Animal exclusion stops the digging. It does not automatically restore bearing soil or drainage.
Safety, Legal, and Permit Notes Homeowners Miss
Local rules matter. Trapping, relocation, euthanasia, pesticide use, and exclusion timing vary by state and species. Some animals cannot be relocated. Some can only be handled by licensed operators. Some exclusions should not be done while young are inside a den.
Call 811 before digging post holes, trenching, excavating around burrows, installing buried fence aprons, or repairing irrigation near utility corridors. Even a shallow garden project can cross low-voltage, communications, gas, electric, water, or private utility lines. Private lines such as irrigation, landscape lighting, pool lines, and some outbuilding utilities may require a private locator.
Fence rules also vary. Many cities regulate fence height, front-yard placement, corner visibility, materials, and permits. Before building a tall exclusion fence or changing a boundary fence, check your local building department or development services office. A low hardware-cloth bed guard is usually simple; a perimeter fence near a sidewalk, alley, easement, or street corner may not be.
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A Practical Action Plan for This Week
Day 1: photograph and measure the holes. Mark new activity. Look for mounds, tunnels, plant damage, droppings, tracks, and nearby attractants.
Day 2: check at dawn. Separate feeding damage from burrow entrances. If holes are scattered and shallow, focus on food sources and temporary repellents. If there are raised tunnels, identify whether you are dealing with moles or voles. If there is a large entrance near a structure, stop and call a professional.
Day 3: remove attractants. Secure trash and compost, pull pet food indoors, pick up fallen fruit, reduce birdseed spill, trim dense cover, and correct overwatering where the lawn is soft and insect-rich.
Day 4: install exclusion where it protects something valuable. Use 1/2-inch galvanized hardware cloth for raised beds, bulbs, trunks, and small-animal barriers. Bury the bottom 6 to 12 inches or bend it outward as a 12- to 18-inch apron. Tighten gates and corners.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What animal is digging small holes in my garden at night?
Many small overnight holes point to skunks, raccoons, armadillos, rats, or other nocturnal animals feeding or burrowing. Cone-shaped holes about 3 inches wide often suggest skunks. Larger shallow holes or rolled-back sod can point to raccoons. In the South, multiple 3- to 5-inch rooting holes may be armadillos.
How can I tell the difference between mole, vole, and gopher damage?
Moles make raised tunnels and volcano-like mounds while feeding on insects and earthworms. Voles make 1- to 2-inch openings, surface runways, clipped vegetation, and root or bulb damage. Pocket gophers make fan- or crescent-shaped soil mounds with plugged openings and can damage roots and irrigation lines.
Do coffee grounds, mothballs, or ultrasonic stakes stop animals from digging?
They are not reliable long-term controls. Some scents may create brief pressure, but repellents usually need reapplication after rain or irrigation. Mothballs are pesticides and should not be used casually outdoors. Exclusion, attractant removal, and species-specific control work better.
When should I call a wildlife or pest-control professional?
Call a pro for large burrows, animals under decks or slabs, rats near structures, active mole or gopher systems, repeated damage after DIY corrections, or any raccoon, skunk, fox, bat, sick animal, or dead animal concern. Also call when a burrow may be undermining a patio, foundation, steps, or retaining wall.
How much does it cost to stop animals from digging in a garden?
DIY inspection can cost $0 to $40. Small raised-bed exclusion commonly runs $50 to $250. Larger fencing materials often cost $3 to $15 or more per linear foot. Professional wildlife removal commonly runs about $200 to $600, while rodent or structural work can exceed $1,000 if cleanup and repairs are needed.
Should I fill the holes right away?
For small feeding divots, you can level and repair the area after documenting the pattern. For active burrows, especially near structures, do not fill or block them blindly. You need to confirm the animal is gone, check for young, follow local wildlife rules, and repair any voids properly.
Quick Recap
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