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This “aquarium” has no water, pump, or fish to feed: it is an 8.8-inch ultra-wide screen running animated aquarium software inside a clear enclosure. The 2021 build paired Serene Screen Marine Aquarium with a 1920×480 display and a Radxa ROCK Pi X. That board was discontinued in 2022, so today the project is best treated as a documented design to adapt—not a guaranteed-current shopping list.
What the project is
HotHardware published the original build on March 11, 2021. Its author fitted an ultra-wide LCD into an acrylic napkin holder, added a small x86 computer, and used Serene Screen Marine Aquarium to provide animated fish, scenery, bubbles, and aquarium lighting. The transparent holder supplies the shape; the display and software supply the aquarium.
The 1920×480 screen is much wider than a typical monitor, which gives the object a long, tank-like profile. The original author found that the software looked better suited to the proportions than it did on a conventional widescreen display. The build reportedly reached about 75–80 frames per second in its tested configuration, though the author capped it at 60 fps. Those results belong to that particular hardware and software setup, not to every reproduction. HotHardware’s project account documents both the construction and its limitations.
The original parts—and what to use now
The original components below describe one 2021 build. Its reported display price was about $65 at the time, not a current quote; the article’s prices and marketplace sources should not be treated as live purchasing information.
#1 Best Overall
- 2 Heating Outlets: Temperature control mode: on and off control. Please note that it is just a heating controller with no cooling function. The probe comes with a suction tray and ideas for a water tank
- Applicable scene: Because it has the powerful function of corrosion protection, it is very suitable for freshwater, seawater aquariums, coral cylinders, ornamental shrimp, and tropical fish
- Dual Time Cycles Setting: Different daytime and night temperatures can be set within 24 hours, depending on the needs of animals or plants.Displays: Plug-and-play and designed with dual displays; support Celsius or Fahrenheit
- Multi-functions: Temperature calibration; sensor fault alarm; Maximum output load 1200 W (110 V)
- Over/Under-Temperature Alarm: Non‑adjustable fixed setting; Temperature out of range (from -50°C/-58°F to 99°C/210°F) triggers an alarm, turns off all outputs, sounds the buzzer, and displays “HL”
| Component | Original-project part | Role and present-day consideration |
|---|---|---|
| Computer | Radxa ROCK Pi X Model B, 4 GB RAM and 64 GB storage | Runs the operating system and aquarium software. Radxa says the ROCK Pi X was discontinued in 2022, so consider it an obsolete, used-market component rather than a dependable new purchase. A current small x86 computer is the more practical substitute for a Windows-based build. Radxa’s ROCK Pi X documentation |
| LCD and controller | HSD088IPW1-B00, 8.8-inch IPS, 1920×480, with HDMI-HSD8B-V02 driver board | Creates the panoramic display. This is a specialty panel, not a standard monitor; verify that a listing includes a compatible controller board, ribbon cable, and power arrangement. Current availability is not established. The roughly $65 figure was reported in the 2021 article. Original project details |
| Enclosure | Feoyoho acrylic napkin holder, used on its side | Provides a ready-made transparent shell. A clear organizer, acrylic display box, laser-cut panels, wood frame, or custom 3D-printed shell can serve instead if it leaves room for electronics, airflow, cabling, and service access. |
| Printed structure | Two-piece stand, hood, internal brackets, and removable motherboard tray | Frames the panel and holds the computer. The original files are on Thingiverse; check their dimensions and adapt them to the exact panel, controller, and enclosure you obtain. |
| Cooling | Approximately 1.48×1.44×0.93-inch heatsink attached with thermal-conductive tape | Moves heat away from the board. Size and attachment must suit the replacement computer; allow airflow and monitor temperatures rather than assuming the original setup will transfer. |
| Cables and mounting | Six-inch Micro-USB cable, left/right-angle USB extensions, left-angled six-inch HDMI-to-Mini-HDMI cable, and M2/M3 standoffs | Connects and mounts the specific original parts. Match connectors and cable exits to your actual hardware; do not force a cable bend to fit the printed frame. |
| Visible print material | AMOLEN dark-walnut wood PLA; black PLA for internal brackets | Finishes the visible frame and separates it visually from internal supports. Other filament or non-printed materials are valid; a printer is not essential to the concept. |
| Power supply | 45 W supply and one-meter USB 3.1 cable in the original build | The ROCK Pi X documentation calls for USB Power Delivery 2.0 and at least 9 V / 2 A. A connector that fits is not proof that a supply supports the required power mode. For substitute hardware, follow its own power specification. Radxa documentation |
Why the original computer was chosen
The ROCK Pi X offered a small x86 platform with integrated Intel graphics and the ability to run Windows or Linux. Its original Atom x5-Z8350 was a quad-core Cherry Trail processor specified at 1.44 GHz base and up to 1.92 GHz burst, with Intel graphics listed at 200 MHz base and up to 500 MHz burst. The board was offered in configurations from 1 GB to 4 GB RAM. These are specifications of the discontinued board, not a minimum specification for every replacement.
What makes the display a sourcing risk
Before buying a panel, determine whether the listing is for the LCD alone or for a matched panel-and-controller bundle. Confirm the revision, connector orientation, cable length, driver-board dimensions, mini-HDMI input, and power input. Used or surplus listings may omit parts or provide unclear compatibility and return information. The ribbon cable is delicate: design the enclosure around a relaxed cable route rather than bending or twisting it into place.
Choose a platform before making the enclosure
For the original Windows application, a small x86 mini-PC or x86 single-board computer is the more straightforward modern direction. Prioritize HDMI output, stable graphics drivers, Windows support for the software version you intend to use, suitable storage, and cooling appropriate for continuous operation. A compact mini-PC may be easier to set up and replace, but it can be larger, warmer, and noisier than the original board. A newer x86 SBC can be smaller, but driver and Windows support vary.
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Outbyte Driver Updater FREEFix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Outbyte PC Repair FREEClear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →An ARM board such as a Raspberry Pi can drive an HDMI display, but that alone does not make it compatible with the original Windows Marine Aquarium program. Choose an ARM device if you are willing to use alternative Linux aquarium software, a browser-based display, or a video loop. A small HDMI media player is the least involved option for a looping video, but it is not an interactive screensaver and does not reproduce the original software experience.
Rank #2
- Temperature Control Mode: On/Off Control. Cooling and Heating control
- Fully submersible probe. Aquarium probe works better in water than standard probe
- Temperature calibration; Over-temperature and sensor fault alarm. Dual display window, be able to display measured temperature and set temperature at the same time
- Maximum output load: 1200W (110V)
- It's an all in one, simple solution providing control of cooling and heating
Before committing to a platform, verify the complete combination: operating system, software release, output mode, controller board, and power supply. Do not assume that a newer integrated GPU or an ARM processor will work simply because the original application is lightweight.
Plan and build the enclosure
The original design used a Prusa Mini, a 0.8 mm nozzle, 0.4 mm layer height, and no supports. The author joined printed sections with cyanoacrylate glue, used wood-filled PLA for the exterior and black PLA for internal brackets, and got better results printing large wood-filament pieces individually rather than together because simultaneous printing caused stringing. Those are useful reference settings, not universal requirements.
The shared Thingiverse design was made for the author’s parts and enclosure. Validate dimensions before a full print; display revisions, cable positions, and replacement computer layouts may differ.
- Measure the enclosure interior, LCD, controller board, computer, heatsink, connectors, and cable exits.
- Adapt the existing model or design a frame that holds the panel without covering active pixels and leaves clearance around ports, the Wi-Fi antenna, and cooling surfaces.
- Print small fit-check sections or test rings before committing to the full frame. Check the hood, stand, mounting points, and panel fit without powering the display.
- Use standoffs or threaded inserts where practical. Keep the motherboard tray removable so the computer can be serviced without destroying the enclosure.
- Route the display ribbon cable with a generous bend and no pinch points. Do not use it to support the LCD or force it around a sharp corner.
- Dry-fit the whole assembly, including power and video cables, before closing the shell. Keep access to power, USB, or storage if the design permits.
If you do not print, the same layout can be made with laser-cut acrylic, hand-cut wood or polystyrene, or a repurposed clear desktop organizer. Whatever the material, leave room for the LCD and driver board, computer and cooling, power and video cables, antenna, ribbon cable, and future access.
Rank #3
- Integrates with Red Sea's ReefBeat app
- Compatible with ReefRun return & skimmer pumps
- Customize feed, maintenance, and emergency modes
Bench-test the system before installing it
Use a conventional monitor during setup. The original builder needed a separate monitor to access BIOS settings and change the boot device, since the specialty display was inconvenient for that task. Testing outside the enclosure also makes driver, resolution, and stability problems easier to diagnose.
- Connect the computer to a standard monitor, install the operating system, and confirm that the machine boots reliably.
- Install the computer’s chipset, network, storage, and graphics drivers. For an original ROCK Pi X, Radxa’s archived downloads are available, but its wiki says it is no longer maintained.
- Connect the specialty LCD temporarily. Check that the controller board is powered, select the correct input if needed, and test whether the system offers the panel’s native 1920×480 mode.
- Install and launch the intended aquarium software. Run the complete computer-and-display combination for several hours before mounting it in the enclosure.
- After resolving display and stability issues, test again with the enclosure assembled and cooling in its final configuration.
Install and configure Marine Aquarium
Serene Screen Marine Aquarium began as a late-1990s aquarium screensaver and is associated with artist Jim Sachs. It supports customized fish and aquarium scenes. The official site offers downloads or demos for some platforms; try the relevant demo before purchasing or designing the build around a particular release. Serene Screen
The official FAQ describes a general Windows installation: download the installer, launch it, follow the instructions, and enter a purchased keycode if required. It recommends trying a demo before purchase. The FAQ’s PC guidance says at least 64 MB of video memory and lists Windows XP through Windows 10; this is legacy compatibility information, not confirmation of full support on Windows 11. Its references to other platforms should also be checked against the current download and software version rather than treated as a blanket compatibility promise. Serene Screen FAQ
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Once the program runs, configure the unusual screen deliberately:
Rank #4
- Programmable Timer with 3 Modes: This fish tank light timer offers 6, 10, and 12-hour cycles that repeat daily once set — choose 10 hours at 8 AM and it turns on every morning at 8, then gradually dims to simulate sunset by 6 PM. Ideal for freshwater tanks, saltwater reef setups, and planted aquariums that thrive on a consistent day-night rhythm.
- Beginner-Friendly Setup: Press the timer button to cycle through modes — 1st press Yellow (6 h), 2nd press Green (10 h), 3rd press Red (12 h), 4th press cancels the timer. Color-coded LED indicators let you confirm your setting at a glance, so no guesswork even on your first try
- Designed for Aquarium Hobbyists: Whether you keep a betta tank on your desk, a shrimp breeding setup, or a 75-gallon reef, this LED light timer turns a basic tank into a professionally lit aquatic display. A go-to tool for aquascapers and fish keepers who want their livestock on a healthy photoperiod year-round
- Manual On/Off Supported in Timer Mode: Timer function stays active (no auto-cancellation) unless you intentionally press the timer button to disable it. Next scheduled on/off time adjusts automatically based on your manual activation (e.g., set to turn on at 8 AM, manually activate at 7 AM → subsequent cycles shift accordingly)
- Wide Compatibility: Features a 5.5mm x 2.1mm barrel connector that pairs with most single-channel aquarium LED fixtures running on 12-24V DC. Compact size (3.9 x 2.8 x 1.2 in / 10 x 7 x 3 cm) tucks neatly behind your tank stand. Low-voltage design keeps the setup safe around water and livestock.
- Use native 1920×480 output if the graphics system offers it. If not, test the closest supported mode and inspect for stretching, cropping, or black borders.
- If full-screen mode performs poorly, try a borderless or windowed presentation. The original author reported about 25 fps in full-screen mode on the 1920×480 display, while the application ran at full speed on a conventional monitor; windowed mode performed better on the specialty panel.
- For a windowed presentation, hide the title bar if the software allows it and use a black desktop background to reduce visible edges.
- Disable unnecessary startup programs and notifications, configure the application to launch after boot, and prevent the computer from sleeping or turning off the display during intended continuous use.
- If performance is low, reduce fish count or visual effects. The FAQ gives similar advice for some slow or freezing configurations, but its steps may be platform-specific and dated.
Power, cooling, and continuous operation
For the original ROCK Pi X, Radxa specifies USB Power Delivery 2.0 and at least 9 V / 2 A; do not infer compatibility from a USB-C plug alone. The original project used a 45 W supply, a one-meter USB 3.1 cable, and a passive heatsink attached with thermal tape. The author recorded a peak temperature of about 83°C under full load and considered, but did not install, a 40 mm 5 V fan. Limiting the aquarium to 60 fps reduced heat in that build. These figures are observations from one system, not expected temperatures for a replacement computer. Original build and test account
- Check the replacement computer’s actual voltage, current, and power-delivery requirements before selecting a supply.
- Monitor temperature during the first hours of operation and provide an airflow path; do not assume a sealed acrylic shell is adequately ventilated.
- Keep the controller board and voltage regulators from pressing against acrylic, and use thermal adhesive rated for the expected temperatures.
- Use a quiet fan only if passive cooling proves insufficient. Lower temperatures do not resolve graphics-driver crashes: in the original build, airflow reduced temperature but did not improve stability.
Troubleshoot by symptom
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- Confirm power to the LCD driver board, the selected input, and that the HDMI-to-Mini-HDMI cable is seated and correctly oriented.
- Check that the panel ribbon cable is fully inserted and that the panel and controller were sold as a compatible pair.
- Connect a standard monitor to verify that the computer reaches BIOS and boots, then check graphics output settings before reconnecting the specialty panel.
- Test the panel’s native mode if available; an unsupported timing or resolution can leave the screen blank even when the computer is running.
Wrong resolution or a stretched picture
First confirm whether the operating system and graphics driver expose 1920×480. Test the nearest supported mode and inspect the result rather than assuming the controller will scale it correctly. If the desired mode is unavailable, isolate the issue with a standard monitor and verify the graphics driver and panel-controller pairing.
Flicker, freezes, or blue screens
The original ROCK Pi X build experienced Wi-Fi driver problems, unknown devices, graphics-driver installation difficulty, flickering, freezes, and blue screens. It was less stable when the author interacted with the desktop and behaved better when the screensaver launched immediately and the system remained idle. This is a report about that hardware and configuration, not a general diagnosis.
- Test with a standard monitor and check whether the problem follows the specialty display or happens on both.
- Confirm power-delivery requirements, cable seating, and temperature; try a lower frame-rate limit and windowed mode.
- Try a different graphics-driver version or temporarily remove Wi-Fi and other peripherals to isolate conflicts.
- Reinstall the operating system only after testing the simpler hardware and driver variables.
The original author also described a Linux-then-Windows reboot sequence that appeared to help, but did not establish why. Treat it as an unexplained anecdotal workaround, not a validated repair. The article also reports a local Group Policy change to get an Intel driver installed; this was a hardware-specific, Windows-era workaround, not an instruction to apply broadly.
Best Value
- Available for simulating a sunrise and sunset effect, 3 default setting mode for choosing from
- Program on/off mode simply with the power button
- Increase and decrease the light brightness manually with the plus and minus button, it can adjust the brightness from 10 – 100%
- Compatible with 5.5mm x 2.1mm barrel connector, 5 - 24V DC LEDs single-channel LED strip lights.
- Install the controller quickly, easy to use
Low frame rate
Try borderless or windowed mode, native display resolution, and a 60-fps cap. Reduce the number of fish or visual effects if the software version exposes those controls. If performance remains poor, the graphics driver, display timing, or replacement computer may be the limiting factor; test the exact combination rather than assuming all integrated graphics behave alike.
Wi-Fi failure
Use wired Ethernet during initial setup. ROCK Pi X owners can consult Radxa’s archived drivers and downloads, while keeping in mind that the documentation is no longer maintained.
Ribbon cable damage or fit problems
Stop and redesign the cable route if the ribbon is sharply folded, twisted against the controller, pinched by the shell, or carrying the panel’s weight. This is a mechanical fit issue; software settings will not fix it.
Which build path makes sense now?
| Path | Best suited to | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Recreate the ROCK Pi X build | People who already own the board, or who enjoy finding and restoring obsolete hardware | Most faithful to the documented design, but the board was discontinued in 2022 and the original configuration had driver and stability difficulties. Display sourcing is also uncertain. |
| Use a current small x86 computer | People prioritizing a better chance of reliable Windows operation with the original application | Usually the practical choice, but dimensions, heat, noise, mounting, and graphics compatibility still need checking against the enclosure and panel. |
| Use an ARM board with alternative software | Makers comfortable with Linux, a browser aquarium, native software, or a video loop | Can be compact and low-power, but does not guarantee native operation of the original Windows application or identical behavior. |
| Use an HDMI media player and video | People who want the aquarium appearance with minimal computer setup | Simple to deploy, but offers a looped video rather than an interactive aquarium screensaver. |
Should you build one?
Build around the concept rather than buying parts on the assumption that the 2021 list is still readily available. The original ROCK Pi X is a reasonable historical choice if you already have the board; for most readers seeking a dependable Windows-based result, a currently supported small x86 computer is the more practical starting point. If software fidelity matters less than the visual effect, a video loop on a simple player avoids much of the operating-system and driver work.
Quick Recap
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